September 17, 2000
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Iquitos, Peru
What a day! I thought it was going to be horrible. I had to get up at 04:30 and be ready by 05:45 to go to the airport. We rushed to the airport and had to sit around as our flight to Lima didn't leave until 07:15. Plus everyone else who was going to Lima met us at the airport and took the same flight! Because Puerto Maldonado was canceled we had to take two flights - one to Lima and then one to Iquitos. Stupid thing was that we had to gather our luggage and go and recheck in for our flight to Iquitos. The flight to Lima was only 45 minutes long. To Iquitos it was one hour and 30 minutes. As soon as we landed in Iquitos we were hit by the humidity. It was only 88F but hotter than heck. We got on another bus and drove to a hotel where we got a drink and got to use the bathroom. Then we headed off to the "pier". First of all I have to say that if I knew this was what it was like, I'd skip the first half of my trip completely! Iquitos is beautiful. Palm trees everywhere, people (natives) in shorts, people driving scooters around and sun, sun, sun! We get to the "pier" which is really a bunch of boats anchored on a beach. We walk past a few nice big boats to this little dinky skip. There was to be five people plus driver and guide - six heavy, very overstuffed bags of luggage and a few supplies!! I'm totally amazed we made it. We get on this boat (I use this term loosely) and head out. Our guide tells us that we are going to the Boras tribe as they are going to give us a welcome dance. I thought this was nice. So we headed off on the boat on the REAL AMAZON RIVER! and drive for about 25 minutes. We get to the launch and head up the "stairs" - wooden logs dug into the dirt and muck. This Boras tribe commutes 40 kms each way and makes sure they are at this "dance hall" by 08:00 and leave by 17:00 every day. They bring the stuff they make in hopes of selling it. So we get introduced to the chief and see his tribe. Everyone wears this cloth skirt and nothing else. Yes, in the year 2000 these women were bare breasted and dancing. They first danced two dances and then they pull everyone in the crowd into their line. I thought this was kind of neat until I realized what was happening. After we danced two dances they split us like a very organized march and started selling us stuff. The way they swarmed everyone was like a bunch of killer bees. It really was kind of fascinating. I spent way too much on a few things but that's ok. I got five bracelets, two necklaces and a carved turtle shaker for I think around $40 soles ($11 USD). But the experience was well worth it. We left the Boras tribe and got on the Amazon River again. This time we drove for about two hours! I just kept thinking - "on the 19th we catch our plane in Iquitos at 08:30! God we are going to have to get up really early." I just could not believe the Amazon River. It is truly amazing. I dare say better than Machu Picchu and Lake Titicaca put together. The river is so wide even when it is low! The vegetation, animals - definitely a place to come back to. We'll see how I survive the bugs tonight. We finally got to the lodge and as soon as the boat stopped you got that sweaty sticky feeling. We got our rooms, changed and met at the dock again. This time we were just going down the river a bit to see a sugarcane plantation. They grow their own sugarcane - it takes about six months to grow - process it (with a horse that walks in a circle all day at the grind) and then sell it. They specialize in 18% firewater. We met up with some more Spanish people at the sugarcane farm. While we were arriving there, some drunk Americans were leaving. They made such asses of themselves as they wanted their picture taken with some plain chickens! After we left the sugarcane plantation (after testing their product!) we went up the Amazon to watch the sunset. It was beautiful. Sure the top of the world at Huayna Picchu was incredible but this place is paradise. We stayed on the Amazon River till after it got dark and you can see the starts. We were drifting with the current, watching the fireflies (the first I've ever seen) and king fish jumping out of the water. It was beautiful. Unfortunately the other Spanish group we hooked up with could not be quiet for the life of them. They had to whisper and giggle and make noise on the boat. I was getting mad. We came back to the lodge and had dinner. We had yucca (which really has no taste), rice and pork. Tomorrow will be an interesting (again early!) day if it does not rain. I'm gonna try and get some sleep. Out comes the long sleeved shirt and mosquito netting. Wish me luck as it is terribly hot as well. |
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